Is it safe to travel to Colombia?
We discovered this answer for ourselves as we broke myths and made new friends.
‘Is it safe it travel to Colombia?’. When we shared our travel plans with friends and family, this was the question we heard. We all know the nation’s brand has suffered for decades under a cloud of drugs and violence. Yet word from experienced travelers has seeped out that much has changed, and this dark brand no longer fits its bright future.
We are now part of that growing legion of Colombia advocates. The country is a true wonderland. From Andean peaks to Caribbean beaches; the lush Amazon rain-forest to the cobblestone streets of historic towns; bustling big cities to ancient archaeological wonders. And everywhere—charming people. I have not been any place quite like it!
The Colombian Civil war began in 1964 which meant this now welcoming paradise was overcome by the longest-running civil war in the Americas: militant guerrillas against governments against narcos. Throughout decades of strife, thousands of people were killed and as many as 5 million people were displaced. Although a foreign traveler getting caught in the cross-hairs of the conflict during this time was a rare occurrence, it was a common precaution to stay in the major cities and not travel to rural areas. ’Tis true, many locals we spoke with had, up until recently, never left their hometowns for fear of being kidnapped and held as a prisoner of war.
View of Bogota from steps up to Cerro de Monserrate
It was not 2010 when many countries even deem parts of Colombia safe to travel.
In 2016, President Juan Manuel Santos was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for brokering a peace treaty with the FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) and the country has started to welcome people from all over the world in record numbers. Still, when you mention to many North Americans that you’re planning a trip to Colombia, it’s often met with tension and the lingering fear that begs the question: “Are you sure it’s safe?”
Thus, I set out with our film team on a myth-busting mission deep into the mountains of the Caldas Region. Here, at heart of the Eje Cafatero (coffee region), well off the tourist-trodden path, we were welcomed with open arms. We learned firsthand what the old charm of Colombia is all about.
Although it’s likely an outdated question amongst nomadic travelers and expats, we believe it remains a fair one—based on all the feedback we received. “Has Colombia really changed and is it now safe to travel?” Spoiler alert: It MORE than passed the test!
Here is our Journey:
Days 1 & 2: Bogota
The Palza Bolivar – La Candelaria Historic District – Bogota
Our trip began in the capital city, Bogota. Located at a staggering elevation of 2640 meters (8660 feet), Bogota is the beating heart of Colombia. Both the cultural and commercial hub of the country, you will likely never be bored here—from the many restaurants and bars of the Zona Rosa and Zona G (G for gourmet) to the Colonial wonders of La Candelaria historic district and the Plaza de Bolivar to Cerro de Monserrate—the Andean hill that dominates the metropolis. .
We climbed the 1,500 steps up Cerro de Monserrate, rather than take the funicular, to get a stunning view of the city. We crisscrossed endless streets with colorful colonial houses and savored every finger-licking minute of a dramatic gastronomic 11-course meal at the famous El Cielo restaurant.
Gastronomical Experience at El Cielo Restaurant – Bogota
After the meal, stuffed and buzzed, we raced to catch our bus. Zig-zagging along the treacherous mountain roads at an average speed of 30 km per hour, our overnight Bolivariano bus trip from Bogota to Manizales took about 9 hours. The bus had spotty WiFi, electrical outlets and although not quite a luxury as our Argentine bus trip the seating was comfortable enough.
In Bogota, people discuss crime like we discuss the weather back home in Vancouver. “Don’t go downtown, don’t take cabs, don’t go out at night,” they’ll say. Although petty crime exists in Bogota (like in any major city), we never ran into trouble even though the crew and I were carrying a very expensive camera. (That said, I have heard stories of cameras being stolen or locals reminding tourist to put their phones and cameras away).
Day 3: Manizales and Hacienda Venecia
Meeting the Boss at Hacienda Venecia
We The crew, Joel Barrow and Connor Moran, and I awoke to an eerie thick mist floating through our mountain valley; lush green coffee plants lined the hills that towered nearly 1000 meters above the valley. We’d stayed the night at Hacienda Venecia, a 100-year-old coffee farm deeply rooted in family tradition.
We hadn’t even left our little hostel bunker before drinking three cups of espresso each. Another espresso awaited each of us at the main house—this time with eggs and toast. Our host & proprietor, Juan, joined us for breakfast.
At each stopping place along our tour of the farm, Juan would ask, as if by habit (or incredible hospitality), “Another cup of coffee?” and he’d begin preparing it before we even had a chance to answer.
A generous and passionate host, Juan ripped us around the plantation in his old Willys Jeep, showing us the ins and outs of coffee farming. We took another Willys Jeep (that was also the local bus), straight up the mountain into the central market of Manizales. Juan followed closely behind.
The Market, loaded with colorful local fruits and vegetables, had a raucous atmosphere with dozens of police and local farmers amassed tightly in the center. We navigated the crowd as best we could with our giant video camera while the locals offered us shots of their favorite drink—aguardiente—and samples of the local produce.
Manizales, the central city in the coffee region, is renowned for its gorgeous mountain setting, friendliness, universities and cultural life. Uniquely, it was a haven, untouched by many of the country’s internal conflicts.
One of Manzielles many pubs
We chatted with locals and had more espresso at the cafe in the Basilica Cathedral overlooking Bolivar’s Square before heading up to the Chipre Viewpoint to watch paragliders float into the striking sunset.
Days 3 & 4: Salamina
En Route from Salamina to Villa Amparo in Eje Cafetero
This time traveling by car, nerves of steel had been required to contend with the swerving roads we’d traveled through the mountains at a torrid pace all the way up, down, and back up again, From Manizales to the quaint historic town of Salamina.
Situated in the heart of the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Axis), Salamia is an enchanting colorful, cobblestone-street town. It is a UNESCO world heritage site surrounded by verdant mountains.
The beautiful La Casa De Lola Garcia Hotel – Salamina
Salamina had been recommended by De Una Tours as had our hotel, the gorgeous La Casa de Lola Garcia.
We spent two days there with our guide turned drinking buddy, turned friend, Andres. There was so much to do we wrote an entire blog dedicated just to Salamina
Days 5, 6 & 7: La Merced, El Tambor
Sitting atop yet another old Willys Jeep, we headed through the mountains from Salamia to Villa Amparo in La Merced. Our hotel hosts from Salamia came with us because our host at Villa Amparo didn’t speak any English; they wanted to ensure we could communicate our filming intentions to him. I couldn’t remember the last time I’d driven 8 hours just to help someone out; I was beginning to understand the charm of Colombia.
Horseback Riding at Villa Amparo – La Merced
Villa Amparo rests atop a hill at the edge of a river valley; it seemed like we were a million miles away from civilization.
Each night, Eduardo, our new host, cooked fresh Colombian cuisine and we’d listen without understanding as he and wife conversed passionately in the kitchen in Spanish.
In the mornings, as roosters walked around the property and cats and dogs lounged in the hallways, local gauchos and farmers would visit Eduardo for coffee or cocoa; this was always accompanied by more impassioned conversation.
Eduardo led us on horseback into the mountain where we watched impossibly beautiful sunsets and sunrises and we even went paragliding.
At times, it seemed almost surreal—a couple of gringos with a camera, lost in translation somewhere in the Andean mountains of Colombia—completely safe, completely at peace.
Day 8
Views atop El Tambro – Near Villa Amparo
Regrettably, our time in this region of Colombia had come to an end. With heartfelt goodbyes from all our hosts, it was translated to us that we were now “family.”
A long drive down through the mountains and along the river to the local airport in Pereira and, before we knew it, we were back in Bogota.
Maybe it was the altitude or maybe we were exhausted from the whirlwind expedition, I don’t know, but I felt sad to be leaving Colombia.
Never so fast or deeply had a country welcomed us and taken such good care of us. The theme that “traveling to other countries can surprise you” has always held true, no matter where we’ve been but Colombia seem to reach another level – it penetrated the soul. Maybe, it was just that we just didn’t know what to expect from a country that has clearly been grossly misunderstood. Something tells me that’s not case…